Oh no, I´m a Tourist

So, after a couple of days recovery in Cusco after the Inca Trai, we headed down south to a town called Puno, on the banks of Lake Titicaca. Loads of signs proclaiming it to be the highest navigable lake in the world, but at 3900m or so, there must be mountain lakes higher that you could get a rubber dinghy out in, surely.

Anyhow, looked quite impressive as we rolled down the mountains into town. We were there to take a boat trip out onto the lake (or lago, as my now almost fluent spanish would have me say).

So, after a dodgy Chinese meal that layed Troy and Lianna low, we set out on a chuggy cabin cruiser to first off visit the floating reed islands of Uros. The guide book had somewhat prepared me for the rampant tourist commercialisation, but even so, this was the shammiest part of South America we´d encountered so far. Very interesting seeing the reed islands (where Thor Heyadal got the nouse to build Kon Tiki) but it was all for show. I guess without tourism, the skills would have been lost some time ago, but even so, the closest I´ve felt to this before was on a package tour to Bodrum in Turkey; an experience I vowed never to repeat.

Hey ho, still two islands to go. Next on the list was Taquile island. We were set down at a small port with the promise of a lovely hour long walk along the coast. And it was. Lovely. Then we got to the main village, where exhorbitantly priced handcrafts and poor value lunches awaited. This was also the first place where all the kiddies when they said hallo (common all over) also held out their hands begging.

Still, we still had the highlight of our trip to come. A homestay on Amantaní Island. A short boat trip took us to the landing spot, where we were greated by a band and dancing girls. Really. We were then divied out among the islanders, and Mike and I got billeted with Maritsa. Home was guest quaters separate from the main home. We took a trip up the main hill on the island to watch the sun set, which was great. Then back home for dinner.

We thought we´d be eating en famille, but no. Dinner was brought to our humble aboad, and we eat alone. The main man of the household (can´t remember his name) came and had a chat in spanish with us after, which was quite cool as I understood most of what he said, and could add a few pertinant comments myself.

Then it was on to the fiesta. Fuelled by some of Mike´s premixed vodka orange, and a large beer, it was onto the dancefloor all night. Ok, for an hour or so. Which is about all I could have managed anyway. Energetic dancing to say the least, and at around 4,000m it takes your breath away I can tell you.

An early breakfast, and then we were away back to Puno. And that was that. One or two good bits, with lots of tourisy stuff I hoped I´d be avoiding along the way.

I´m in La Paz now, highest capital city in the world. And I´ve been ill, so sypmathy please. Not heaps to do here, but we´re off tomorrow to look at silver mines on the Altiplano, then on to the salt flats.

Group Dynamics

Five weeks in, and there´s been no bust ups within the group yet. This is pretty suprising, as generally in this size of group (15 people) there´s going to be factions set up, cliques forming and rivalries brewing. Accepted opinion seems to state that at the start of a trip like this, everyone loves one another; half way through everyone hates each other and then everyone comes back together in the end. However, everyone seems to be quite chilled, relaxed, cruisy type people, making for an extremely relaxed atmosphere.

We´re not going out as one big group so much, but neither are we sticking to certain people within the group. Except the couples of course, whose mini domestics provide cracking entertainment for everyone else.

It will be strange when about half the group get off at Santiago, and even stranger for the poor bloke who´s joining us then.

Did the Inka Trail last week, which was good, and saw Machu Pichu, which was quite pretty.

Cruise of the Condor

Best Condor Photo Evah
Originally uploaded by Johnnie Shannon.

Condors everywhere! Well, almost. A lot in Coca Canyon anyway (By the way, does anyone know the difference between a gorge, canyon, valley etc.). (Loads of new piccies as well, click the link)

Since the last time, we´ve been camping at Porta Inca (and getting a sneaky footy match in there), in the town of Arequipa, in the Colca Canyon looking at Condors and free camping on the way to Cusco, where I am now.

Condors were magnificent. Had to get up at the unearthly hour of 5am in order to get to the canyon to spot them rising on the early morning thermals. It was worth it. I won the beer for spotting the first one (haven´t had it yet, had a bit of a dodgy stomach over the last couple of days, nowt too serious though) and then suddenly they were all around. Females only at first, a couple of which perched conveniantly on the rock right in front of us. Then a few males came into view, even bigger with a distinctive white stripe on the top of the wings. Everyone was snapping pics left right and centre, and there was a crowd of several hundred to view the specticle. Beaut scenery as well.

In Cusco for a couple of nights acclimatising, then it´s off on the Inca Trail to Machu Pichu next week. It´s a four day hike, not too strenuous if you were doing it at lower altitudes, but could be a bit tiring at 4,000 metres or so. Be good to do some excersise though. Apart from the footy I`ve not done too much since I´ve been out here.

Contrasts in Camping

Groovy Sunset
Originally uploaded by Johnnie Shannon.

Since last time, we´ve been to Lima, travelled further on down the coast and I´m now writing this in Nasca, waiting for the world rally championship to go through so the road can open again.

Lima was OK. We stayed in reasonable hostal in Miraflores; the posh part of Lima. Good nights out and all, but it´s just another city. The next day we headed south to take a boat trip to the Ballestras Islands. Saw loads of sea lions, birds, penguins etc. Bit choppy on the water. We then went into a coastal national park and free camped on the beach (see piccie).

This is what group overlanding is all about. If you were doing this sort of thing on your own, the hassle and time required to book and travel to these sort of locations would be a right pain. As it was, we just rolled up, unpacked the cooking gear and had a barbie of chicken in lime and sausages, with pepper and onion melange on the side, with garlic bread from the oven of course (yes, I´m still eating well).

Top location so far, although I´m assured it gets better.

Three weeks gone in no time at all. I knew it would go quickly, but not this fast. Better get down to some serious enjoyment soon.

The Group

The Group
Originally uploaded by Johnnie Shannon.

Woo! Yay! I´ve now got added photos. Check them out by clicking the pic.

The Wages of Fear

So, after spending a couple of days in Huanchaca, checking out some ancient remains, we made the trip up into the mountains to a spot called Huaraz. Should have been a quiet, uneventful day, but we managed to miss the easy road, so instead went over the Andes on a somewhat more perilous route. It wasn´t so much the narrowness of the road, nor the overhangs that threatened (but didn´t) take off the roof of the truck. Nor was it the speeding maniac busses and lorries that were coming in the opposite direction. More scary was taking a 40 tonne truck over roads and bridges that probably weren´t designed for that weight, and looking at the loose agglomoration of rocks and mud that was mostly holding the road up. Over a few thousand foot drop or so. Made it though!

Oh, and we had a puncture half way up, which was interesting.

Still, Huaraz is a bit of a metropolis in the Andes. Took a trip out to the high mountains today to do a bit of glacier walking. Good stuff, and at 4, 850 metres, the highest I´ve ever been on this planet so far. Tremendously beautiful scenery, which I´ll share with you once I´ve sorted some piccies out.